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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and sandy bays form the resplendent mix that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the end of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a rather agreeable dilemma: where to go to relax bones still longing for a final taste of summer sun. For this city offers something that many continental destinations cannot: a coastline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would covet.

During the off-season, the shores of the region still have a magnetic allure, as I discovered when taking a dip into a setting sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those seeking revitalization in marine blue waters ready to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the Riviera’s accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as excellent as the breathtaking panorama of the bay it overlooks. In a tribute to times past, the appetizers is served on big platters.

Athens is as renowned for its elevations as its shore: natural elevations within sight of the ancient citadel that make it a treasure trove for strollers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to get away from a metropolis that extends across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – bearers of wonderful titles such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Hill of the Muses – are a must.

In my opinion, this ancient capital is Europe’s most spiritual and sublime.

If you climb the summit of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either by foot or on the cable railway, the prize is a spectacular vista of the entire gulf and the offshore isles.

If you want to stay centrally, the historic Plaka neighborhood remains the ideal location. The old-school a classic hotel hotel has rooms looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the vicinity, a popular restaurant is a preferred restaurant with locals and serves the most succulent lamb chops. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are wonderfully atmospheric and ideal for warm autumn evenings – for a special experience head to Kuzina or the Michelin‑starred Macris.

Palermo

Think Neapolitan pizza is the ultimate in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer sfincione, a soft, well-risen rectangle of dough topped with intense, onion-laden tomato sauce and sprinkled with local cheese and oregano. Hearty, filling and cozy, it’s sold in shops, kiosks and carts throughout the town (Via Maqueda in the old town usually has several vendors).

We sample it at a stand on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re staying. A local spot often has big lines, but they move quickly as young staff dish out slices of the pizza, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we dine as we stroll into the city along narrow a street. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t be so in the heat. As heatwaves rolled over Europe this year, temperatures in Palermo reached 40C in the shadow. At the end of July one sunbaked corner hit a record 70C at ground level.

We wander the streets and savour how its long history is etched in its architecture.

Now, as the climate creep to 24C by mid-afternoon, we can explore the city and savour how its long history is written in its streets. Walking by historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the unique architecture of the medieval San Cataldo Church; Piazza Pretoria, with its 16th-century fountain, placed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, constructed on the location of a ninth-century Islamic temple.

On the way back we take a side trip to Vucciria market, the origins of which also stretch back over a millennium. Some criticize its commercialization, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we pause for a classic spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its mildly sugary “meat” balanced by grated cheese. The stallholder is especially pleased of his grilled goat’s intestines but, unfortunately, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a treat for me.

We’re happy to return to more peaceful the old quarter, the former Arab quarter to the eastern part, which was bombed in the World War II and languished for years before being renewed this century. Maison Butera (sea-view rooms from $175 B&B) is a small guesthouse with lots to see nearby. Up the street is a historic palace, a baroque grand building restored and relaunched in 2021 to house the an art collection, which includes works by contemporary artists and Andy Warhol.

Next day we stroll a short distance to the city's Botanical Garden, with its record-breaking ancient tree. Songbirds are singing their hearts out as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and the cold season will start. We enjoy a final days in the sunshine.

The Austrian Capital

While mourning the end of summer and hanging out at seaside spots and bathing spots on the branches of the river, I’m now seeking a new hue. This city is a metropolis of parks and well-kept lawns, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which swap their emerald halo for a rusty amber and yellowish tint the locals call golden autumn.

I leave behind the impressive buildings and cobblestones of the historic centre. To the southwest of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park splays from the magnificent Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t reserved for the inside, and leads into corridors of tall bronzed hedgerows and arched tree terraces that go to the butter-yellow palace.

To the eastern part, in the city’s Prater Park, I stroll beneath the chestnut trees of the Hauptallee, an avenue that’s almost three miles long and centuries-old. On the border of the park, the vintage-designed a trendy hotel (doubles from $85 with breakfast) is a ideally located getaway.

In a city with hundreds of urban farms (thanks to a long-standing commitment to promoting parks and building community spirit), autumn brings a feast of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Pumpkin cream soup is the seasonal staple – best eaten in a wood-panelled Beisl such as the decorated Am Nordpol 3 – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

The city is a place of green areas and landscapes that change their emerald halo for a rusty amber and ochre glow.

Unbeknown to many, the capital is the only continental city to grow wine within its city limits, with 1,723 acres of grape fields. There are fourteen official urban paths, known as Stadtwanderwege. Route one takes you through the vintner lands of a district. Relax in a slope Heuriger such as Wieninger am Nussberg, sipping a citrussy white wine with a platter (a platter of sliced meats and cheese), while soaking up the sublime city vista.

The days are getting briefer, but now is the ideal moment to wander among the city's stately palaces, galleries and old homes – a {cultural crop|